A collection
of paint color information
for Chrysler 300 Letter Cars
Revised February 27, 2023
Exterior Paint Color
Year Code Name Old Ditzler Number Page # New Ditzler Number
1955 01 Black 9000
25 Tango Red 70525
71899
30 Platinum 8096
8680
1956 01 Raven Black 9000
37 Regimental Red 70643
71568
41 Cloud White 8036 E-66
1957 A Jet Black 9000
F Parade Green (m) 41826 DYE-DDL
2205 w/less poly
N Copper Brown (m) 21018 E-180
P
Gauguin Red 70693 DYE-DDL
70618 little darker
X Cloud White 8036
1958 AAA Raven Black 9000
HHH Aztec Turquoise 42150
R-195
MMM Mesa Tan 21447
2467
OOO Tahitian Coral 70779
60398 too light
PPP Matador Red 70791
71946
XXX Ermine 8131 E-67
1959 AAA Formal Black 9000
KKK Turquoise Grey (m) 42263 E-292
RRR Radiant Red 70791
WWW Cameo Tan (m) 21551 E-185
XXX Ivory White 8131
ZZZ Copper Spice (m) 21550
22240 slightly darker
1960 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Toreador Red (m) 71003 E-399
WW-1 Alaskan White 8218 E-69
R-356
ZZ-1 Terra Cotta (m) 71053 E-400
1961 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Mardi Gras Red 71203 E-403
R-317
RR-1 Cinnamon (m) 71140
A-309 (lacquer)
WW-1 Alaskan White 8218
1962 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Festival Red 71203
WW-1 Oyster White 8293
ZZ-1 Caramel 22095 E-194
1963 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
MM-1 Alabaster 32202 E-248
R-175
NN-1 Madison Grey (m) 32305 E-251
R-176
TT-1 Claret (m) 71348 E-406
R-262
WW-1 Oyster White 8293 E-71
R-73
1964 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
CC-1 Wedgewood 12655 E-120
R-91
DD-1 Nassau Blue (m) 12763 E-123
R-93
EE-1 Monarch Blue (m) 12764 E-124
R-93
FF-1 Pine Mist (m) 43151 E-312
R-199
GG-1 Sequoia Green (m) 43149 E-312
R-199
KK-1 Silver Turquoise (m) 12648 E-120
R-91
LL-1 Royal Turquoise (m) 12765 E-124
R-93
MM-1 Madison Grey 32305
OO-1 Rosewood (m) 50635 E-366
R-238
RR-1 Royal Ruby (m) 50638 E-366
R-239
TT-1 Roman Red 71393 E-412
R-262
UU-1 Embassy Gold 22311
WW-1 Persian White 8358 E-72
R-73
XX-1 Dune Beige 22293 E-198
R-141
YY-1 Sable Tan (m) 22317 E-198
R-141
22-1 Silver Mist (m) 32398 E-254
R-176
1965 AA-1 Regal Gold (m) 22461 E-202
R-144
BB-1 Formal Black 9000/9300
CC-1 Ice Blue 12894 E-129
R-96
DD-1* Nassau Blue 12763
EE-1 Navy Blue (m) 12896 E-129
R-96
FF-1 Mist Blue (m) 12895 E-129
R-96
GG-1 Sequoia Green 43149
KK-1* Peacock Turquoise 12897
LL-1 Royal Turquoise 12765
MM-1* Granite Gray 32401
NN-1 Silver Mist 32398
RR-1 Sierra Sand 22441
SS-1 French Ivory 81413 E-440
R-284
TT-1 Spanish Red (m) 71476 E-407
R-263
VV-1 Cordovan (m) 50673 E-367
R-239
WW-1 Persian White 8362 E-72
R-73
XX-1 Sand Dune Beige 22440 E-202
R-143
YY-1 Sable Tan (m) 22317 E-198
R-141
YY-1 Sable Tan ** (m) 22643 E-207
R-146
ZZ-1 Frost Turquoise (m) 12898 E-129
R-96
22-1 Sage Green (m) 43287 E-316
R-201
33-1 Pink Silver (m) 22444 E-202
R-143
44-1* Moss Gold 22443
55-1 Black Plum 50672
66-1 Mauve 50671
77-1 Patrician Gold 22442
88-1 Daffodil Yellow (1) 81515 E-444
R-285
Year 1955 Silver 1956 Silver 1957 Silver 1958 Silver 1959 Black 1960 Black 1961 Black 1962 Turquoise Green 1963 Turquoise Green 1964 Turquoise Green 1965 Turquoise Green
Suggestions
from members collected over the years.
1960 era
instrument and speedometer needles, Testor Model Master Flourescent
Red #FS28915.
http://www.testors.com/products/136210
1960 air
cleaner gold may use Plastikote Gold (452). It probably will need clear coat to hold up in the engine compartment environment.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-14805-plastikote-metallic-paint-12-oz-can-gold-452.aspx
Some members have also recommended Dupli-Color DE1604 Universal Gold
Engine Paint for the air cleaners. Try also the VHT high temperature universal gold engine enamel SP132.
See also http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/1acleaner/01.html for a color comparison on H air cleaners.
Long ram paint: Cummins engine Apex red #3163075.
From Herb Rogers:
Your Chrysler dealer has original factory colors. Golden Lion Gold
P4529149 Mopar Performance paint. Be sure to use a red primer .
From Gil Gunningham regarding the 300F wheel cover:
Someone asked about the best match for the red orange color used for the hubcaps on a 300G.
For the 57 era dash knobs, consider Duplicolor Metalcast Yellow Anodized #M2282.
Rich Barber writes:
Ray Melton writes:
However, since the color matching was a multi-step trial-and-error process
(add a little green and silver here, take out some red there, add more
black, etc.) there was not an easy way for the painter to replicate the
color for future applications, either by myself or someone else. So, I took
the finished pieces to my local paint specialty shop and had them analyze
the color using a special hand-held electronic color matching device. In
less than five minutes, they were able to come up with the formula for
tinting, and I thought I would share that with other interested members.
The starting point for the color base coat was one pint DuPont Chromabase
clear. I don't know what all the numbers and letters mean, but your own
paint specialty person will! Also note that a urethane-compatible primer
must be applied before the color coat.
259663 K CC: M CHROMABASE BC Alt: (EUR)
The top coat was DuPont Chromabase clear, with ~50% flattening agent to
yield a satin gloss level. Not being an automotive painter myself, I was
shocked at the price for this base coat/clear coat paint: the base coat
alone was $112 for one pint, plus a few bucks more for the activator! On
the other hand, the guy who painted my parts mixed up only 8 ounces of color
base coat, and there was still some left over after applying two coats of
color, so that would be only ~$56.00 for a half-pint of the color coat. I
didn't ask about the cost for the clear top coat, but it will be
considerably less. I had the parts stripped and bead-blasted by another
place ($55.00 - and careful NOT to strip the inner surfaces of the oval air
cleaner end pieces to preserve for subsequent color-matching!) before taking
them to the automotive body/paint shop -- the final charge for priming,
sanding and painting the two air cleaner housings and both valve covers was
$280.00.
Note: I've had no need to try out this formula myself, since my parts are
already painted, but if you decide to go with the formula above, you might
want to do a bit of custom color-matching yourself: do a test shot on a few
square inches of a smooth metal surface (tin can lid?) and see how you like
it, then add/subtract tint components to fine-tune to your personal
preference.
Hope this helps some of you out there, so you won't have to go through the
somewhat tedious trial-and-error approach that I did.
A couple of years ago when I had my air cleaners and covers painted, advice
from some club members was to use Mercedes Benz Byzantine Gold colour from
the 1970's. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this in this (and other)
threads.
Did that and they look terrific. My car isn't going in a museum so close is
good enough for me. It isn't a bright gold - which is good. Here is a link
to an advertised car that is pretty much how it turned out.
This may suit others who just want to tell their painter a known colour.
Might be even able to get it in a rattle can.
Hello 300 Fans: Would one of the members please let me know the paint code for passenger side of the dash board (beige) for a 300B. Sincere Thanks Ross
Hi Ross: The color that I use is stock no. 9886 BASF/ limco acrilic enamel. It is called camel beige, it fits a 79 -86 Chevy pick up. Color code 64 / wa8057 . I leave the red oxide out and put in 25 more units in one pint of paint. This color matches Gary's vinyl very well. Bob Hayen
Click here for a reprint of Gil Cunningham's article on K interior colors
Click here for a reprint of Gil Cunningham's article on L interior colors
From the 1976 Club News Vol III Number III, Gil Cunningham wrote:
Parts of this table are from the fall 1980 Club News Volume VII Number I
(m) Denotes metallic color
Old Formula Book
(New in 1980)
or
22-9
(*) Used before Dec 22 1964 then cancelled
(**) Code was changed to #22643 in Jan., 1965
(1) Daffodil Yellow was released on March 1, 1965 for the 300-L
Engine Block Color
Results not verified, use at
your own risk.
Another
match is a Opel gold from a auto parts store.
From Noel Hastalis:
Re a recent group email request, here's a link provided by one of our Club members a couple years ago -
www.tcpglobal.com
then click on the 'autocolorlibrary' tab
A note over the list server regarding dash paint:
The color is a GM color, called "Arizona Beige" DuPont No. 45195-D. I
painted half of the dash on my 300D with this paint (in a spray can from Tower
Paints) and you cannot tell where the new paint ended and the original
paint started. Terry McTaggart
The Chrysler drawing for the 300F wheel cover (PN 2122531) states "same as
#1856400 Assy - wheel cover, except Flag Red Paint C-7415, in place of
semi-gloss black, C-1412-E." Since the black for the 300E cover was stated as
semi-gloss, and there was no differing specification for the red, I would
conclude the red is also a semi-gloss. I do not have specifics on the
actual Chrysler Color number with regard to gloss.
Now, what is Flag Red? It is also the color of the red specified in all
the red white and blue 300 plastic medallions. Therefore, if one has a good
NOS medallion, that is the Flag Red color. It is easier to match if the
medallion is smooth in the red area like those on the D, G, H, and J wheel
covers.
I do, however, have an official Chrysler color master for the ram manifold
red, C-7107-A. When an original medallion is held on the surface of that
master, the two colors are almost a perfect match! For some time the Club
has suggested using Cummins Engine Red (Apex Red) as a substitute for the
ram paint, although it seems just a wee bit darker. Unless you want to try
and match the medallion red, the Apex red would probably be a decent
substitute for the Flag Red.
As for the "gear", I am sure they are anodized. Also, very nice
reproductions are available through the Club Store.
300ly, Gil Cunningham
Noel replied:
"We’ve been using Cummins Diesel engine red. Pick up a spray can at your local Cummins shop."
Val replied: "I recall using Seymour Buick Red in a spray can. Perfect match."
Bob replied: "Agree with Noel. Cummins Apex Red paint p/n 3163075, available through Cummins parts outlets. Good for intake rams and wheel cover centers 300G/F."
I don't have any specific written reference, but here is what I have been
told and have come to believe and apply to my '55 C-300.
Block, intake manifold & pan are silver/aluminum. Exhaust manifolds are raw
cast iron but can be painted with a gray tone that will emulate uncorroded
cast iron.
Air cleaners and valve covers are flat to semi-gloss. I re-finished mine in
1970 Cadillac Byzantine Gold with flattening agent to 80% gloss and tinted
to take some of the red out of the formula made up by my painter. We were
attempting to match the remnants of original paint on the Delta wing air
cleaner. Less glossy would have probably been more accurate, but the
results looked great. See: http://www.kolumbus.fi/paivi.autere/e12.html
for a picture of a Caddy in that color. I've also been told that the gold
color varied somewhat over the two-year period the Delta-Wing air cleaners
were used and that there may not be an absolute color standard for the color
of these items.
Plug wire covers were also semi-gloss black, but glossy looks better. I was
able to order slotted pan head screws in stainless steel for the spark plug
covers from Ace Hardware. The originals are chrome-plated carbon steel
screws and the chrome is almost always damaged at the overly-wide slot from
the stress of removal and installation. I've seen where maybe the spark
plug cover screws on the 300B engines were Phillips-head pan head screws
which were a stock item at Ace.
You might want to consider powder coating the items if your coater will work
with you on color. Just don't get them too glossy-the wet look isn't quite
right.
Properly done, the engine, air cleaner, rocker arm covers and accessories
form an impressive and attractive example of mechanical art. These Brutes
are as Beautiful with their hoods up as they are closed up and ready to go.
I recently had the air cleaners and valve covers for my 1957 Chrysler 300C
repainted in what I believe to be the correct shade and gloss level as
originally supplied. On the back side of the oval ends of the air cleaner
housings, I found what I am certain was the original Chrysler color,
untouched by previous owners who had painted the exterior only. I had a
local paint and body shop match the old paint color by trial and error until
I was completely satisfied with the color - when the custom mix was sprayed
right on top of a masked portion of the original paint, I could hardly see
the transition. The parts were painted with a urethane primer, sanded,
then two coats of the urethane color base coat, followed by a clear coat
with approximately 50% flattening agent to give a satin gloss level. The
final outcome was a tint slightly more silvery and less reddish-gold than
the Plasti-kote #452 that had previously been applied, and with a more
subtle satin gloss, rather than a too-bright high-gloss.
Daewoo - 67U
Mix size: 16.0 oz. (pint)
Tinting Guide: Formula #259663
882J LS yelo oxide 27.1 (I was told this
means YELLOW)
811J Med aluminum 45.4
891J Transox Red 62.1
819J Fine bright aluminum 69.8
806J HS Black 75.5
833J Green Gold 79.0
1005S Gold Pearl 89.6
1009S Super Green PL 95.2 (I was told the "PL"
means PEARL)
150K B/C Balancer 317.1
175K Binder 444.5
Henry Schleimer writes:
http://bringatrailer.com/2011/03/24/bat-exclusive-1973-mercedes-benz-450se/
Mr. Harry Ewert has written me regarding the proper color for the 300E grille. My subsequent research lead me to the same point as when I tried to determine side medallion red and wheel cover red; Chrysler Color No. C-7415-E, Flag Red -- but no Ditzler number. In fact, no one at Chrysler or Ditzler could come up with a number for this color which would key to a mixing formula. So, we are left with the old axiom from geometery -- things equal to the same thing are equal to each other. Applying this to our problem, we mentioned last issue that Martin Senour No 7956 Red was a close match for our 300F wheel cover red. 300F wheel covers, as well as all 300 covers with red paint should also satisfy the needs of the 300E grilles. Let us hope so!
|
Instrument
panel colors:
C300:
Saddle Beige, Ditzler (PPG) # 21181 |
INTERIOR
PAINT COLORS – DITZLER NUMBERS – C300 thru 300J
Reprinted
from the 1981 Club News Volume VII Number II
|
MODEL |
PAINTED AREAS |
COLOR & TYPE |
DITZLER No. (Original) |
Off-Set Color (Substitute & Remarks) |
|
C-300 300-B |
Instrument Panel |
Saddle Beige Gloss |
21181 |
DDL 21688 1969 English Ford Color, little too brown |
|
300-C |
Instrument Panel
|
Saddle Beige Gloss
|
21181
|
See above.
|
|
300-C |
Convert top bows & Linkage |
Sahara Tan Gloss |
21279 |
DDL 23011, Ford Fleet Color, Slightly Redder |
|
300-D |
Instrument Panel |
Saddle Beige Gloss |
21181 |
See above. |
|
300-E |
Instrument Panel |
Saddle Beige Gloss |
21181 |
See above. |
|
300-E |
Lower windshield molding, radio speaker |
Jewel Black Semi Gloss |
9028 |
DIA 9404 |
|
300-E |
Convert top bows & Linkage |
El Greco Beige Gloss |
21447 |
DDL 22110 |
|
300-F |
Lower instrument panel, steering column cover, upper instrument panel, defrost outlets |
Saddle Beige Gloss |
21181 |
See above. |
|
300-F |
Radio grille |
Black Frost Met. Gloss |
9229 |
DDL 32914 1971 Mazda color, slightly darker |
|
300-F |
Lower cowl side panels early cars |
Black Frost Semi Gloss |
9929 |
See above. |
|
300-F |
Lower cowl side panels late cars |
Saddle Beige Semi Gloss |
21181 |
See above. |
|
300-G |
Instrument panel, including defrost outlets, radio grille |
Black Frost Met. Gloss |
9229 |
See above. |
|
300-G |
Lower cowl side panels |
Black Frost Semi Gloss |
9929 |
See above. |
|
300-H |
Instrument panel, including defrost outlets, radio grille |
Medium Tan Met. Gloss |
22091* |
*Not exact match of original but closest available according to Ditzler. |
|
300-H |
Lower cowl side panels |
Medium Tan Semi Gloss |
22091* |
See above. |
|
300-J |
Instrument panel upper, windshield upper and side molding, rear window molding |
Autumn Red Met. Gloss |
71284 |
DDL 71642 Redder/slightly darker. |
|
300-J |
Instrument panel Air outlets, lower windshield molding |
Mohawk Red Met. Semi Gloss |
71284 |
See above. |
|
300-J |
Radio grille, instrument panel center cluster, push button covers |
Burgundy Red Met. Semi Gloss |
71280 |
|
|
300-J |
Lower Cowl Side Panels |
Autumn Red Met. Semi Gloss |
71282 |
|
Mike Laiserin wrote this in response to a question on Hurst paint and it is a good review of paint in general:
Although there are several different "gold" colors for Caddy (both '69 & '70), the color code I believe you're after is PPG #2184. It's referenced as Sauterne. No "mist" or "gold" in the name. It's currently available from PPG in their "Shopline" series.
Having said that here are some thoughts: I've found that modern formulas used to mix older colors are "close" at best. The modern toners / pigments used to paints are not the same as those used when the colors were formulated. Also, it's not just paint brand itself. When I did my 300K in Silver Torquoise I had an original aged, but untouched paint sample under the K medallion on the quarter panel. It polished clean. I mixed the color in PPG, BASF Diamont, and Glasurit and Dupont. Not only did not of those match the good sample on the car, they didn't even match each other. They were all close, but different. I chose the one I liked best.
When painting my brother's '71 Chrysler I did the same thing.. multiple brands for the burnished red metallic produced different colors and ALL of them way too brown. None of them matched each other and none of them matched our sample and/our memories and old photos of when the car was new. We chose a 2012 Jaguar color and it was perfect. The metallic was very fine and there was no pearl look in the color. By that I mean the color didn't change or "pop" in the sunlight. Yes we looked at newer Chrysler colors but they all had larger metallic and all "popped" in the sunlight...a dead giveaway it would not be an original color.
Also, paint companies have a camera they use to scan the color for a formula... yes and no. The camera only references the closest color stored in the computer, not the formula to mix the paint you're trying to match. What it comes down to is the modern paint formulas are at best a close attempt to match originals. I believe you'd be better suited pulling the deck of chips (NOT a color book) and fanning them out to match what you either have as a sample or choose the one that's close. Look at the color chip "head on" and then look at it from a 45 degree angle to see if the "sidecast" is acceptable. Some colors look good straight on then completely change when looking at an angle. Try to avoid a color that has that "flop" to it. I don't recommend letting your painter tint the paint (change the formula) to try to achieve the desired color. By the time you need something repaired or touched up he'll likely be long gone and then good luck trying to redo the one-off mix. Stick with a color code you're happy with. Another thing to remember is that for any given color code on a vehicle (even new cars) there are often alternates. Meaning we sometimes have 3 or 4 formulas to choose from for the same color code.
Hope I didn't muddy the waters, or colors, so to speak
Mike Laiserin
Someone was asking about the colors for the K.
Go to:
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pdf/1964_Domestic_Color_Manual_pdf.pdf
The 1964 Code K and silver turquoise are listed.
E-mail or call SW Automotive and they will tell you
what modern paint color matches the old formula.
They helped me get a modern color to match Alaskan White.
Tony Rinaldi
For those of you who might want to touch up the tan interior paint for 300D/300C/300F/ 300G, the color is "Arizona Beige" DuPont paint code 45195-D. I used on my 300D and I couldn't tell where the new paint started and the original paint ended.
Terry McTaggart
I had a local body supply store make me a quart of Chrysler green engine paint from the last of my Duplicolor 210. It came out perfect and cost $38.00. The place is MacDonald Auto, 1397 E. Main St., Torrington CT. 06790 in case any club members need this paint. Ask for John Leonard. 860-489-1410. He has the recipe.
Charley Fisher
On the electroluminescent Astradomes,
I recently did a lot of experimenting with different paints for gage needles. I found that Plasti-kote High visibility fluorescent works best, and the needles still light up nice. The part number is FL-9 in an 11 once spray can.
That can is more than you will ever need.
On 1960 gages the lighted part of the gage can be un-screwed and un-plugged. This leaves the entire needle exposed. I used a tape mask and lightly sprayed the needle. On the 61-62 the lighted part is riveted. I would spray some paint into a small cup, or a fold made out of paper, and use a small brush.
I also tried 2 different red engine paints, and neither allowed the needle light to shine through.
Don Verity
A few years ago I visited the local Finishmaster shop in my hometown hoping for assistance in getting an accurate match for the original Platinum white paint for my '55. After searching through quite a bit of literature in the local store the manager submitted information to the manufacturer for additional assistance. On the following day I received a phone call from the store manager and she indicated that a response had been received and the results were that a single stage urethane paint formula used by Isuzu is a "close match". I took a chance with that and I'm very pleased. I've had numerous comments regarding the color as a great reproduction of the original. My personal opinion is that it likely falls within the original batch variations of color as applied at the factory.
From the label on my paint can: NASON FUL-THANE 2K URETHANE
Isuzu 83-84
Code 849
Color Navajo White/Misty White
I also have suggestions for attractive colors for the gold and the silver, but neither of those is an attempt to duplicate the original colors and both are more glossy finishes. I'm happy to share the details with anyone interested. I can send photos of paint can labels to your email address.
Marshall Goodknight
Ron Kurtz writes:
The steering column on E 292 is noticeably chipped and scratched. Instead of going the Ditzler route, where the correct pigments may no longer be available, I found a decent match with Rustoleum color "Sand," no. 7771. It's almost dead on.
Marshall Goodknight adds:
All of the dash parts on my ‘55 C300 have the original paint. Because of some scratches on the glove compartment door I chose to repaint one from a parts car as a trial. I used Rustoleum Sand nearly 10 years ago and that substitute remains in place on my car and the color difference difference is not perceptible.
Jeff Miklas writes:
You might recall the thread awhile ago about the paint formula for 300C Gauguin Red.
Larry Jett mentioned that I had a paint can from Larry's 300C that had a very correct color match.
At the time, I had misplaced the can due to my move to my new garage.
I have since found the can. I sent these PDFs to Larry. He suggested I send them to you for the archives.
More Tint Information
Dave Schwandt sends this PDF for the Aztec Turquoise paint code.
Noel Hastalis investigates the black paint behind the grilles on F, G, H. Click here.
Carl Bilter writes:
The paint used on engine compartment accessories at the time started out as leaded GLOSS enamel that was rather carelessly applied, often directly on freshly machined parts that still retained machine oil residue, and as such, caused the gloss to mellow to a semi-gloss sheen rather quickly. Age, heat, dirt and wear contributed to a reduced sheen level. No primer was used. Based on my experience at least some parts appear to have been dipped or very carelessly sprayed as runs in the paint are common. The paint product used on most parts was durable however. Engine blocks were full gloss enamel. My research and experience with original parts indicates that radiator tanks of the early 60s were semi-gloss when fresh but faded perhaps due to heat? I think that most satin enamels offered today are of insufficient luster for the radiator tanks and most definitely insufficient luster for parts attached to the engine such as the power steering pump, A/C compressor, brackets, air cleaner etc. (A/C mufflers are full gloss).
Here are the results I obtained on my J using semi-gloss black, and it appears accurate to my eye in daylight. 1961 should be comparable. My intent was to capture the factory correct sheen levels on all parts. In the future I might go slightly glossier as the sheen does mellow some with time and heat and also for personal preference.
Michael Van der veen writes:
Here is a page from the 1964 Chrysler book on pin stripe colors for the 300K.
Bill Elder writes:
A while ago, this group had a discussion regarding the proper gold colour for our air cleaners. For years the standard was Plasti-cote 454, which is now very hard to find. Don Verity suggested Dupli-color, engine ceramic, Universal Gold, DE 1604. I am refinishing my G air cleaners and I bought a can of Universal Gold, but I also had an unused can of 454 from when I did my Ram K air cleaners. Here are my redone air cleaner bases. The one on the left is 454. The one on the right is Universal Gold. I can’t tell them apart. A perfect match.
Carl Bilter writes:
40 years ago or so the “gold standard” was Plasticote 452, as shown in this photo with a can from 1983 along with modern Duplicolor gold. In 2018, I sprayed samples of both for comparison (Plasticote 452 on left, Duplicolor on right) and thought that Duplicolor looked more correct. I used the Duplicolor on my J air cleaners.
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Don Drakulich writes:
DupliColor is making Chrysler Green again. I just saw it at SEMA. Part# DE1619.
Rob Bohuslav writes:
Regarding the gold for air filter housings, here
is what I ended up going with based on what I've been told by a few folks, as being the most accurate to the factory color:
Tim Tomlinson writes:
Look for a Prevel sprayer. Uses a cylinder of compressed gas, feeds from a glass jar underneath spray head. Gives very good results with mixed, correct code paints.
Kurt Brueske writes:
I found a good match for 1962 interior paint.
Click here.