Q: Where can I find a fuel pump
rod for my 413 engine. NAPA doesn’t have them.
A: NAPA can no longer supply them.
CarQuest has them, #PR1021. Chrysler dealers have them under
various numbers: 1737745, 3751613, and P5249569. All for under
$10. Length is 3-7/32”.
Q: I need dome light bulbs for my
’55 300. What number are they?
A: #210-6V is what you need. This
bulb is also used in the dash. They seem to be difficult to find.
If parts stores can’t help, try some farm tractor dealers.
Q: I installed a 2.93/1
differential with Sure-Grip in my 300F to get better fuel mileage
and more grip on the road (from non Sure-Grip) and having trouble
getting the axle clearance. One axle sticks way out.
A: When changing a non Sure-Grip
to Sure-Grip, the right axle is 1/8” shorter than the left
because of the different “block” thickness in the
Sure-Grip center section that separates the axle ends. Solution –
grind 1/8” off end of right axle and follow axle end play
procedure in the service manual.
Q: My ’56 power steering
pump leaks fluid between the pump and generator. It works fine
otherwise. Is there a gasket that can be replaced?
A: It would be a C/R 7480 or
National 6835S. Remove the driving lug and drill 2 small holes in
the metal portion of the seal – about 1/16”. Get two
1” long metal screws of approx. diameter and size then screw
them in about 1/8”. Use pliers or vice grips, pull on the
screws to remove the seal. Install new seal with proper size deep
socket that contacts metal portion of the seal.
Q: What chassis lube would you
recommend for our old cars? Some grease that I buy tends to get
“thin” and gets “squished” out of the ball
A: A moly, barium, or lithium
based grease works much better than the ordinary type. We prefer
the moly because of its “cling” and superior “slip”
qualities. Barium type is second, lithium would be third choice
above all other lubes. Best anti-friction.
Q: Many years ago I was told to
“change the air in my tires”, that is to deflate and
reinflate. Never heard of that again. Is this another
“grandfather’s axe” story?
A: You know, we have heard this
also years ago. The theory behind it was when tires went to
tubeless, many gas stations had compressors that were old and had
the situation of pumping oil vapor from the crankcase into tube
type tires. The rubber tubes would go bad in time due to “oil”
in them. When tubeless tires came into use we guess this same idea
came into play. “Oil” would eat the inside of the
tubeless tires also. Thank goodness for “new”
compressors that don’t pump “oil”. Grandfather’s
Q: My oil gauge (1960) has gone
bad and can’t seem to get a good used one. The voltage
regulator inside is no good.
A: Try Echlin (NAPA) for a IR4
instrument cluster voltage regulator, or Neihoff AL124A. Use 2
jumper wires and ground base to rear of speed metal housing. Very
early ’60 Chryslers used this without the built in
regulator. This “fix” can also be used in ‘61s
&’62s. Voltage is limited to 7.2 volts to operate other
gauges except amp gauge. Echlin IR4 can be used but must be
adjusted to 7.2 volts output.