Helpful Hints from the

Tim Buck II Garage and Dr. Crankshaft

Revised February 5, 2016

Reprinted from the 2000 Club News Volume 26 Number 2


Q: Where can I find a fuel pump rod for my 413 engine. NAPA doesn’t have them.
A: NAPA can no longer supply them. CarQuest has them, #PR1021. Chrysler dealers have them under various numbers: 1737745, 3751613, and P5249569. All for under $10. Length is 3-7/32”.
Q: I need dome light bulbs for my ’55 300. What number are they?
A: #210-6V is what you need. This bulb is also used in the dash. They seem to be difficult to find. If parts stores can’t help, try some farm tractor dealers.
Q: I installed a 2.93/1 differential with Sure-Grip in my 300F to get better fuel mileage and more grip on the road (from non Sure-Grip) and having trouble getting the axle clearance. One axle sticks way out.
A: When changing a non Sure-Grip to Sure-Grip, the right axle is 1/8” shorter than the left because of the different “block” thickness in the Sure-Grip center section that separates the axle ends. Solution – grind 1/8” off end of right axle and follow axle end play procedure in the service manual.
Q: My ’56 power steering pump leaks fluid between the pump and generator. It works fine otherwise. Is there a gasket that can be replaced?
A: It would be a C/R 7480 or National 6835S. Remove the driving lug and drill 2 small holes in the metal portion of the seal – about 1/16”. Get two 1” long metal screws of approx. diameter and size then screw them in about 1/8”. Use pliers or vice grips, pull on the screws to remove the seal. Install new seal with proper size deep socket that contacts metal portion of the seal.
Q: What chassis lube would you recommend for our old cars? Some grease that I buy tends to get “thin” and gets “squished” out of the ball joints.
A: A moly, barium, or lithium based grease works much better than the ordinary type. We prefer the moly because of its “cling” and superior “slip” qualities. Barium type is second, lithium would be third choice above all other lubes. Best anti-friction.
Q: Many years ago I was told to “change the air in my tires”, that is to deflate and reinflate. Never heard of that again. Is this another “grandfather’s axe” story?
A: You know, we have heard this also years ago. The theory behind it was when tires went to tubeless, many gas stations had compressors that were old and had the situation of pumping oil vapor from the crankcase into tube type tires. The rubber tubes would go bad in time due to “oil” in them. When tubeless tires came into use we guess this same idea came into play. “Oil” would eat the inside of the tubeless tires also. Thank goodness for “new” compressors that don’t pump “oil”. Grandfather’s axe? Hmmmmmmm.
Q: My oil gauge (1960) has gone bad and can’t seem to get a good used one. The voltage regulator inside is no good.
A: Try Echlin (NAPA) for a IR4 instrument cluster voltage regulator, or Neihoff AL124A. Use 2 jumper wires and ground base to rear of speed metal housing. Very early ’60 Chryslers used this without the built in regulator. This “fix” can also be used in ‘61s &’62s. Voltage is limited to 7.2 volts to operate other gauges except amp gauge. Echlin IR4 can be used but must be adjusted to 7.2 volts output.