Chrysler 300 Club International


On Line Newsletter


Vol. 1 No. 1 January 1, 2012


Legal mumbo here if we need it. Disclaimer: 300 encourages letters from the members but can not guarantee publication. 300 assumes no responsibility for the safety of opinions or advice presented herein. 300 can not assume responsibility for the integrity of the advertiser nor of the quality of services or products offered. 300 has the right to refuse any advertising for any reason and to edit ads as necessary. 300 does not provide a warranty nor is responsible for typographical errors, mistakes, or print errors. Views expressed may or may not be those of the publication. This newsletter is published 24 times a year just so I can annoy you.


In this issue:

Spring meet registration form (hot link)

Cars for sale

Cars wanted

Parts for sale

How I do it

Mumbles from Members

Needed for next newsletter



Letter from the editor:



Welcome to the first issue of the On Line Newsletter. We are changing with the times, moving to an on-line format which should promote on-time publication of club news, provide a better format for photos, and I’ll think of a third thing later.


It is an exciting time to be a member of the club. It is a good thing to wake up in the morning. Old cars are the best invention since sliced bread. Anyone that likes working on a 300C with AC should be shot, hanged, then shot again just to be sure.


We are looking in our next issue for your stories on the 300J convertible so take a minute and send to joemoses@ding.com We are also looking for “how I do it” features on repair and restoration of 1961 300G tailgates.


We welcome your comments and direction as we learn what we learn, know what we no, and go where no man has gone before boldly, dangling participles where we may.


Did You Know?


Regarding repair/replacement of door panel boards: Auto upholstery supply warehouses stock the special water resistant boards in 4 ft x 4 ft sizes from which the original door panels were made. Without any special tools and a little bit of effort, you can cut and fit the boards to make your own reproductions.


Dues:


Dues are $25/year US and $30/year foreign (US funds or international bank draft only) payable up to three years in advance. Membership entitles you to membership card, four issues of the Club News, free advertising in the club publications, technical information, the Club Store, and the list server.



Technical advisors:


1955: John Smith email@place

1956: John Smith email@place

1957: John Smith email@place

1958: John Smith email@place

1959: John Smith email@place

1960: John Smith email@place

1961: John Smith email@place

1962: John Smith email@place

1963: John Smith email@place

1964: John Smith email@place

1965: John Smith email@place

Hurst: John Smith email@place


Cars for Sale



# 300C VIN 3N571469, white coupe. The drive train has been re-built but the transmission doesn't work correctly (can't even get out of the driveway). The rear end was replaced but have the original. The motor runs like a dream and is totally original. Click on picture for larger photos. den57small The frame was sand blasted and epoxy painted and all components of the suspension have been replaced. The original rims are also epoxy painted. It is finally painted in the original cloud white but needs repainted because of yet another shoddy bodyman/painter (10s of thousands of dollars of pure aggravation). The bottom of the main body is painted with black emron paint (more thousands of dollars but at least that looks good). All interior pieces have all been re-done. The seats were recovered but are comfortable and look all right. The headliner and front and back glass are installed. All chrome has been re-done and bumpers are installed. Stainless also has been professionally cleaned and looks great. The car is all original and has under 45k miles. I have run out of money and resources to finish this project and will be taking a great loss. I haven't had it appraised but I think an asking price of $50,000 isn't totally out of line. Located in Sarasota Florida. Contact Dennis at (941) 685-4197 or e-mail dennis57300@aol.com (04/05/11)



# 300F Convertible VIN 8403143155, Alaskan White. This 300F is totally restored to show condition and to correct Chrysler Letter standards. Options and equipment exactly match its build sheet. f1small The engine and transmission are rebuilt to as new specifications. Included are the correct long rams and correctly numbered four barrel carburetors. Click on picture for larger photos. All power options, power steering, power brakes, four way bucket seats with front swivel, power windows and power top. This car is fully documented. Price: $175,000. Contact Bob at 317-362-6082 or visit: rpmcollection.com (02/11/11),



Cars Wanted



Parts for Sale


Alternator belt tool: Proper belt tension is now an easy job. $15.00/each includes US shipping. Power steering belt adjuster tool for 1961-68 Chryslers. $6.00/each includes US shipping. Bob Merritt, PO Box 279, Auburn, NY, 13021. (-2-)


1964 wheel covers $25/ea. 1965 NORS muffler, $75. 1959 park lenses, $10/pair. `63 park lenses, $30/pair. `64 speedometer assy, $75. `66 owners manual $10. `69 wheel covers. $10 each. All parts good used. Add 15% shipping. Gary, 91 Pearl St., Melrose, MA., 02176-1305. (-2-)


Parts Wanted



1962 H: Parts in good condition wanted: back up lenses, glove box cardboard liner, top of back door trim moldings (both sides, 4 dr hardtop), and black headliner. Mr. Lynn, 718 Ave., Milton, PA., 17847 (-1-)



Events

Upcoming events here


Write up of past events here, such as Chryslers@Carlisle



Services Offered


Chic’s Auto Parts: Imperial cars & parts. Chic Kramer, 7656 East Arbory Court, Laurel, MD., 20707 (301)-206-5361


NOS and used parts. Murray Park, 4369 S. Township Road 151, Tiffin, Ohio, 44883. Phone 419-448-0293 or fax 419-443-1082. Mastercard & Visa.


Exhaust Systems: Aluminized steel or type 409 stainless for most Chrysler products from 1914 to 1974. Most mufflers available. Sorry, no ‘Y’ pipes. All parts guaranteed for fit & workmanship. Parts can be picked up to save shipping costs. Installation arranged. For price & delivery, Jim Fortin (dba Talermade Exhaust), 95 Weston St. #1, Brockton, MA. 02301-3334. Phone 12 to 11 PM 508-586-4855. Email: HET1@aol.com


Emblems Restored or reproduced. Free catalog. Mention this ad in ITCH and take 10% off your next order. EMBLEMAGIC Co., 8367 Shepard Rd., Macedonia, Ohio, 44056 (216)-467-8755.



From the Membership:


From Bill Bundy of Indiana:


Though I have always like Chrysler styling of the 40’s and 50’s, most people did not and this had a drastic affect on Imperial sales, which was not re-styled until 1955. In 1957 Exner came out with an Imperial design that rewarded Chrysler with the best Imperial sales up to that time, even taking second place from Lincoln, but still far behind Cadillac. It was very unfortunate that workmanship and quality wasn’t good in 1957; these cars had problems and the unhappy and disappointed customers bought something else during the following years.


It is difficult and sometimes impossible to figure out why the public reacts as they do. As an example, why is the 1957 Chevy considered the car that symbolized the 1950’s even though more Fords were sold in 1957? The same thing is true of 1959 and 1960 Cadillacs, at least with the Eldorado models, in that these cars are still considered by many to be the ultimate example of luxury and prestige.


Sometimes things happen that are not related to automobiles that have a bearing on people’s desires for certain types. As an example of this is the 1949 and 1950 Mercury; they are popular today only because James Dean drove a Mercury in the movie “Rebel Without A Cause.”


We also tend to fool ourselves when comparing different cars, such as Cadillacs and Imperials. The average Cadillac for a given year is close to the same asking price of an Imperial, but we tend to think of all Cadillacs going for what Eldorados bring, and this isn’t comparing apples to apples.


At the present time my wife and I own six very fine examples of 1968 Imperials, but only two of these cars were in excellent condition when purchased. The other four required much time, money, and effort to bring them back to a good operating condition and a like-new appearance.


Beauty is always in the eyes of the beholder, and in my eyes these cars are still beautiful with a style that never appears to be dated. I also feel these cars offer luxury and features not found on more modern vehicles, so I am perfectly contented to continue driving these thirty year old beauties.


Well, this is much longer than I intended but feel I have only scratched the surface of this subject. I look forward to what other club members have to say concerning this.



From Bob Mittnight of New York;


I have found a pair of seat belt buckles with an Imperial emblem in an indented area. I would like to get the rest of a seat belt kit to install these in my `63 Imperial. Is there some company that supplies this?



Dear Bob;


Nice to hear from you again. Here's some information on your 1963 seat belts: For the mounting hardware, you can try Murray Park or Chic Kramer. Possibly the sources listed below can also help with the hardware -- I think Ford used the same hardware on their belts of the early 60’s.


Seat belt sources:


ACP, PO Box 2651, Columbia, MD., 21045. 50’s style with lift buckle.


Andover, P. O. Box 3143, Laurel, MD., 20709. 410-381-6700. Fax 410-381-6703.


Dan’s Classic, Oregon, phone 503-234-6674.


Deist Safety, 1 Sonora Ave, Glendale CA 91201, 818-240-7866.


Fasttrack Restorations (Delaware), 302-653-4379. www.fasttracksupply.com


Ssnake Oyl Products, Rt. 2, Box 269-6, Hawkins, TX., 75765. 1-800-284-7777.




How I Did It:



Trunk Torsion Bars on the 300C” by Keith Boonstra.



One of the troubles on my beast has been a trunk lid that won’t stay up. I guess all the years of being closed has weakened the torsion bars (see picture).


So I got out my trusty service manual and read the section on droopy decks. It said I should check the position of the trunk lid anchor and if they weren’t already at the max position, I should move it. And they showed me the tool to do it. Which I didn’t have. So I used my big screwdriver and my long suffering wife to make the attempt.


After I got out of the hospital, I decided to have the torsion bar tool made by a local machine shop. It works wonders, and I will make it available to anyone upon request. However, my trunk lid still won’t stay up even with the torsion bar anchors at max. So, I sold the car and solved my problem.