Helpful Hints from the

Tim Buck II Garage and Dr. Crankshaft

Revised May 30, 2023


Reprinted from the 1992 Club News Volume XVIII Number III

Dear Dr. Crankshaft:

Q: Where can I get the condenser that is on my cross ram engine? Mine is missing.
A: Order #4048494 capacitor from your Chrysler dealer. It is as original except for part number.
Q: The 4 groove pulley on my air conditioned 300 has come apart at the rubber. Are new ones available?
A: No, but contact the dealer and order the “new type” that is solid (i.e. spot welded together) and is used on later models.
Q: My starter is slow and sometimes won’t work.
A: Before rebuilding, check to see if oil is leaking on it. If so, remove and clean the contacts in the solenoid. Also the ground tang may be rusted inside. Clean it up and you may save yourself a rebuild charge.
Q: Which carb is correct for my 1965 300L? Books and parts stores show 2 types.
A: For automatic transmission - #3860, for manual transmission - #3859. Only difference is throttle linkage.
Q: Where can I get a new or rebuilt correct fuel pump for my 60 & 61 300s?
A: Part number 4751 is the correct one. It is the large diaphragm with a bolt together housing. Carter, Airtex and Kem carry these numbers.
Q: The clock in my 1962 300 doesn’t work. How can it be repaired or replaced with a quartz unit?
A: Get a can of electrical contact spray at a radio shop and spray liberally on the mechanism, dry thoroughly and purchase some sewing machine oil and lube all pivot points except the balance wheel. Then use some 400 grit sand paper and clean the points. Check to see if the hairspring is not broken. Hook up to 12V before installing to check operation. Quartz movements do now allow the use of electroluminesent face and hands to glow. Also expensive.
Q: My 413 block is cracked. Will a New Yorker or Imperial work OK?
A: Yes, but use the original crank out of your engine as it is forged and has hardened journals and is balanced at the factory to a greater degree – within 2 plus or minus grams. Imperials and New Yorker are done at 15 to 20 grams. Also use tri-metal (soft) bearings.
Q: What is the difference between 1034 and 1157 bulbs? My car has 1034 and I can only find 1157s. They look the same.
A: 1157 bulbs are of heavy duty type and have longer life.
Q: I need a top for my convertible but have been quoted $400 to $800 for one installed. I can put one on myself.
A: Check the JC Whitney catalog. $160 for a lifetime guarantee.
Q: The wire stands for the spark plug wires are coated on the end (or are supposed to be) but have deteriorated. How can they be restored?
A: Go to NAPA and order black Plasti-Dip. Do not dip but use a dime body/acid brush and brush on the coating to the desired thickness. Make sure stand is clean and free of oil and grease. Leave dry a couple of days and repeat the process if needed, then paint the proper engine color.


Reprinted from the 1992 Club News Volume XVIII Number IV

Dear Dr. Crankshaft:

Q: What is the correct radiator for my 1960 300?
A: #1903358 for A/C, #1904808 without A/C. For 1961, #1904811 for A/C, #1904808 without A/C.
Q: Where can I get brass freeze plugs for my 1961 300 block?
A: Pioneer (Barnes Group) has these under #EP-14-B (1-5/8”). These are the saucer type, not the cup type.
Q: The gauges (oil, temp, gas) keep burning out on my 1960 300. I have replaced the oil gauge that supposedly controls the voltage. What is wrong?
A: 1960 had two types of oil gauges. One made by Stewart Warner with internal voltage regulator and one by Chrysler with an external regulator attached to the back of the speedometer housing. If you use the Chrysler gauge without the regulator, 12V current will blow out the oil, temp, and gas gauges. The voltage regulator limits 7.2 volts to the gauges.
Q: The distributor for my ’57 300 is beyond repair and I can’t find a replacement. Any ideas?
A: Yes, locate one from a 1957 or 1958 New Yorker or Imperial. They are completely interchangeable with only extremely slight differences. Also, an early low-block 273, 318 dual point distributor is almost a drop-in except the shaft is 1” shorter than the hemi. If the shaft on your distributor is OK, make an exchange and change the vacuum fitting on the chamber from hose type to fitting type and use the chamber spring and washers from yours.
Q: My starter sometimes stays engaged when the ignition key is in the run position. Why?
A: Could be that the small return spring on the end of the plunger has lost its tension, or that it is broken. A solenoid repair kit is available through NAPA (#STK12) for about $10. Fits ’56 through ’61 direct drive starters.
Q: I would like to know what are the original and the after market tail light lens identifications for the 1957 300.
A: Original lens is marked CHRCH at bottom of reflector, AL at the top of reflector. Left side has part number 168993LT and right has 1689932RH on rear edge of lens. After market has CY4 below reflector with VB at top of lens for the left lens, and for the right lens has CY3 with VB at top. Another lens is CY4 with TMC above reflector and VB at top (left); right is CY3 with TMC above reflector and VB at top.
Q: You say the 1960, 1961, 1962 clocks can’t be converted to quartz because of electroluminesence incompatibility?
A: Foot-in-mouth here, I’m afraid. I’ve been made aware of a quartz changeover to original operation by Kohler Clock Shop, 1930 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena CA, (818) 792-8991. Cost is $100 including shipping.
Q: The windshield wiper switch on my ’62 300 is bad and the dealers don’t have any. Where can I get a new one?
A: Phone your local NAPA store and order Echlin #WS6456 (Chrysler #2084267) or visit some friendly junkyard. A good used ’61 will work also. ’60 will not work because it works on vacuum. ’61 & ’62 have an electrical switch piggyback on the main wiper switch.
Q: Looking for brake shoes at swap meets really confuse me. Prices range from $8 per axle to $25, but there seem to be many variations for 2-1/2” x 12” drums.
A: Below I will show you the differences. Also, relined shoes by various companies are in the $50 to $70 range, but you can specify what oversize to put on depending on how much metal must be taken off the drums, then get shoes arced to the correct drum turned size.


From the Winter 1997 issue of the Club News:

Chrysler 300 Radiators
(Click here for an updated page)


Part Number






With A/C





With A/C




A/C & non A/C



Manual Trans





With A/C





With A/C





With A/C





With A/C





With A/C



Auto/ 3 speed man.

A/C & non A/C



Auto/ 4 speed man.

A/C & non A/C



A/C & non A/C


From the Fall 1997 issue of the Club News:

Q: I have power steering fluid leaking from my gearbox. Are seals available?

A: NAPA: Upper seat kit #7-317, lower #7-210.

Chrysler: Upper #J8130157, lower #3879921

Q: Transmission fluid comes out of the dipstick tube. Why?

A: 1) Too much fluid. 2) Fluid is aerating. 3) Breather plugged. 4) Wrong fluid (should be Type F or FA). 5) Internal leakage, i.e. seals.

Q: My 300 is used very little and has leaking water pump seals.

A: Purchase water pump/cooling conditioner. This product has emulsified oil that keeps seals lubricated and helps prevent rust.

Q: My bumpers have been rechromed but I notice that the back sides are not.

A: This is normal. The back side should be painted with a rust preventative product and when thoroughly dry, repaint with silver or aluminum paint for appearance.

Q: When driving my 300 at higher speeds, coolant temperature rises and sometimes comes out of the overflow.

A: All Chrysler high performance engines come with high flow brass 160o - 180o thermostats. Standard thermostats have 1" holes. High performance thermostats have 1-1/2" to 1-5/8" openings and respond quicker to temperature.

Q: The differential on my 300 makes noise when I turn corners. It was suggested I change fluid. A parts store sold me fluid for my sure-grip but it didn't help.

A: Chrysler uses a special fluid for the disc-type (early) sure-grip. It is a four ounce bottle of vile smelling fluid. Kendall Oil Co also has this product (#505-7478). This must be used as an additive to prevent disc scoring.

Q: My window motors are frozen. Can I repair them myself?

A: Yes. Take them apart and clean the armature and free up brushes. Lubricate the bushings with a good moly grease. Clean shafts with 400 grit sandpaper. It top shaft seal is bad, replace it with a 15/16" or 1" wheel cylinder cup. Drill a hole in it and force it onto the shaft. This prevents water going down the shaft into the motor. Reseal the housing with liquid rubber.

Q: There is a gray material that oozes onto my `57 speedometer and gauge cluster. What is it?

A: Take apart the assemblies and carefully scrape off the gray material with a single edge razor blade. Remove any remaining gray material with enamel reducer, being careful not to get any on the white numbers. Clean the gray material out of the housings and replace with 3M "Mortite". This is used to prevent the gauge and speedometer faces from rattling.

Q: My electric antenna has power going to the motor but the mast doesn't move.

A: The Nylon "spaghetti" that the motor/drum raises/lowers the mast generally breaks near the drum. Dismantle and remove broken section. Lower mast manually and using a hair dryer, heat the end of the Nylon cord so that you can make a knot in it. Assemble onto the drum and re-assemble the antenna. If the problem is more serious, a replacement assemble is required.

Q: I have a `61 alternator with the following identification: What does it mean?

--- ASSY ---


--- ALT ---


-21 60-

A: 2095060 is a 1960-1961 series with a single groove pulley. 2095000 is the number for an alternator without pulley. 21 60 is the manufacture date: the 21st week of 1960.

Q: My master cylinder leaks fluid out of the cover bolt. There is enough leakage to deplete the fluid in a few hundred miles. Should there be a rubber washer under the bolt head?

A: A large gasket should cover the reservoir with a hole for the bolt to go through. This should prevent "splash up" from the piston returning to "neutral". Fluid level should be 1/4" from the top of the reservoir. No washer is used under the bolt head. Fluid depletion could be caused by bad rear piston seal causing fluid to run down inside the car into the carpet. This also could be caused by a defective check valve at the bottom of the master cylinder bore. Since 1957 through 1961 brake boosters are not in circuit with the master cylinder, none is "siphoned" into the booster.

Q: I would like to put disc brakes on my 300. Does anyone have information on this conversion?

A: Dominator, Inc., 116 Loren Lane, Oakley, CA., 94561 (510) 625-9235 has kits for `55 and `56. Another source: Master Power Brakes, 254-1 Rolling Hills Rd., Mooresville, NC., 28115, (704) 664-8866, fax 704-664-8862. They have many stock spindles on hand.


From the Winter 1998 issue of the Club News:

Q: Where can I find wheel dollies so that I can scoot around my car while restoring without towing, pushing, and shoving it?

A: Try Harbor Freight Tools,1-800-423-2567. They have a pair for $74.99 freight included. Buy 2 pairs ($149.98) for all four wheels. Rating is 1000 lbs/dolly but still adequate for any 300.

Q: While I am rebuilding my engine, should I install brass freeze plugs?

A: Most definitely! While installing them, coat the sealing surfaces of the block with high temperature silicone so that any small pits will be sealed that may be subject to leaks and also give better "grab" to the plug. This should be a lifetime installation.

Q: Any suggestions on start-up of a new rebuilt engine?

A: Pre-lube and pre-pressure the oiling system. Also, use plain water in the radiator in case of coolant leaks. If no leaks, then install anti-freeze and a rust inhibitor.

Q: I can't locate front shocks for my 300s. Any ideas?

A: For 1957 up, order front shocks for a 1971 Chrysler New Yorker. Narrow the bottom shock mount by 1/16" on each side with a hack saw or grinding wheel. For 1955 & 1956, order front shocks for a 1990 Dodge pickup 1/2 ton and widen bottom mount bolt holes to fit the larger `55& `56 bolts. Rear shocks are still listed for all years. Extra heavy-duty gas shocks work very well.

Q: My sure-grip differential clutch pack seems to be worn out. Are these kits available?

A: Any company that handles Spicer can get the kit, #2223X. Be sure to use the sure-grip additive with the new lube fluid on refill [Chrysler dealer part # P4529484].

Q: The windshield wiper motor has gone bad and I can't locate a good one. Are new ones or rebuilts available somewhere?

A: Try Walsh Windshield Wiper Service, 16030 Suntone Dr., S. Holland, IL., 60473, phone 708-596-1900.

Q: I live in the south west and the heat tends to dry out my leather seats. Can you suggest something that will keep them from drying out?

A: A few products are available. Wal-Mart carries Eagle Ottawa (original suppliers of leather) leather conditioner. Also, many auto parts stores carry Dura-Glass leather conditioner. The products rejuvenate and put back a "real leather" smell.

Q: A lot of trouble is caused by corroding electrical connections. I keep cleaning best as can be but still get bad connections.

A: Try "Kopr-Shield" (1-1/2 ounce bottle) from Eastwood Co. It is a copper compound that cures 98% of electrical connection problems. Part # 1695, $7.99


From the Spring 1998 issue of the Club News:

Q: The grease caps on my front drums are dented. Where can I get new ones?

A: Try your local Chrysler dealer. Part number 1613416 is still available.

Q: I need bonded brake shows for my `57 300.

A: Try Don Nowak, 3280 Lakeshore Rd., Blasdell, NY., 14219. Phone 716-824-2293. Don has shoes (no exchange) for `55 and up. $25.00 per axle (4 shoes) + $8.00 shipping. He also has many other parts. Send SASE.

Q: My automatic transmission doesn't want to work until it warms up. It has about 65,ooo miles and has never been rebuilt.

A: Hard lip seals are the problem. If it works well after warming up the seals soften and do not bypass fluid. Add one (1) pint of lacquer thinner into the filler pipe while the engine is running with transmission in neutral. The thinner will flash off and clean varnish and soften seals. If this does not work the transmission will need to be rebuilt.

Q: The #1034 light bulbs keep burning out. Any suggestions?

A: Replace them with #1157 bulbs. They are heavy duty 1034s and last longer.

Q: My brakes "squeal" upon application. They are in excellent condition but do this all the time.

A: Use two hacksaw blades and make a diagonal cut 1/16" wide from right top of shoe to left bottom of shoe about 1/8" deep. This is a factory fix and should stop the squeal.

Q: Is there anyone that makes pre-formed brake lines with "armor" for my car?

A: Try Inline Tube, 17540 14 Mile Rd., Fraser, MI., 48026. Phone 800-385-9452. They say they can supply from 1932 up.

Q: My speedometer jumps all over the dial. Where can I get it repaired?

A: Bob's Speedometer, 32411 Grand River, Farmington, MI., 48336. Phone 800-592-9673. The do work for Chrysler Corp. They also make cables and repair gauges.


From the Summer 1998 issue of the Club News:

Q: What spark plugs should I use on my 300 engine?

A: Use only Champion RN12YC for the `55 through `58 Hemi. Use Champion RJ12YC for the `59 through `65 and `70. Use only solid copper core spark plug wires as the plugs are of resistor type.

Q: My gauges and speedometer will not light up. I have checked the power pack and it is OK. What else could be wrong? (1960-62 electroluminescent)

A: Any gauge that grounds the "hot" wire will prevent the gauge from lighting. Any gauge base not grounded will not light. Any "hot" wire inside the gauge that is broken or corroded will also prevent lighting. A short white wire (with 2 eye ends) must be connected from any gauge screw to the speedometer metal housing to also complete the circuit so that the needle and face will light. Each gauge ust be inspected for fault and be repaired or replaced.

Q: What type of grease should I use in my front drum hubs?

A: First, clean all old lube and clean and inspect bearings. Replace the seal and bearings if needed. Use only a non-fibrous grease. A moly or lithium based grease is the best.

Q: i am missing one linkage rod from my `61 300 that goes from the pivot to the carb. Where can I get one?

A: Make it yourself. Go to the hardware store and purchase a 3 foot length of 1/4" cold rolled rod and one 1/4" x 1/2" SAE bolt, nut and washer. Using the other rod as a sample, cut rod to length and bend as required. Grind head of bolt about 1/2 of its thickness and grind hex to a round. Weld bolt to correct position. Go to an auto salvage yard and take your slip rod as a sample and match up to a Chrysler product carb linkage. This is a common part on many years. They were not special made for the 300s. then go to an auto parts store and purchase the rod to carb clip (a Dorman product).

Q: My speedometer reads slower (or faster) than what my road speed is. The gear may not be the right one as the tranny has been replaced years ago with a non-300 one.

A: 1956 through 1961 Torqueflites for 300s used a 19 tooth gear for the standard 3.31:1 ratio differential. This plastic gear is no longer available. Any speed shop can re-calibrate your speedometer to correspond with the gear you have in the transmission with regard to differential ratio.


From the Fall 1998 issue of the Club News:

Q: My 1960 turn signal lever won't self-cancel. Is it a bad switch?

A: There are two problem areas. First, the switch located below the steering column support may be bad. Remove the one screw and wire connector and inspect the "tip" of the switch for breakage and the spring loaded brass roll which acts as a ground. Also look inside to see if the brass contact arms are broken. Many times the lubricant on the pivot point of the arm dries up. Also, the slide switch will get "lazy" and needs cleaning along with the Nylon "roller" that locks the arm in the three notches. Cleaning and light lube will recondition if no broken parts are evident. All 1960, `61, and `62s have the same switch.

Q: My 1959 A/C compressor clutch will not engage. No one has parts for it. Please help.

A: 1956 through early 1960 uses the 7-1/2" clutch with external brushes. Most any parts store can supply you with a 1961 up through 1980's clutch and pulley. It is a bolt-on process that uses three screws to mount the assembly to the compressor. No external brush kit is needed as all of that is contained inside the new clutch housing. Remember though, you now must use belts for 1961 up.

Q: The mechanical brake light switch is broken on my 300G. Local parts stores do not have listings for that far back. Any replacements available?

A: Any Carquest store can order the switch. No bracket comes with it. This switch will fit 1961 through 1965 Chryslers. Push the old switch out of the bracket and push the new one in. the old switch has a female round plug-in and the new switch has a male spade connector. A new female spade end has to be installed on the old wire lead. Part number for the switch is SLS147, list price $7.15

Q: I haven't been able to locate Chrysler 14 x 6-1/2 rims. I did buy a set of Ford 14 x 6-1/2 (same bolt pattern) but after a while the lug nuts work loose and I have to keep re-tightening. What is the problem?

A: Ford rims use a different taper on the nut than Chrysler. You must use Ford lug nuts or eventually the rims may be damaged beyond use.

Q: A Carter fuel filter is needed for my `57 300C. I can't find any. Help?

A: Carter calls this their "compact model". It is part number GF2159S. composed of an aluminum top with 1/8" pipe inlet and outlet. The gasket is part #23A-20, ceramic element is #30-82, spring is #61-621, bowl is #23-72, and bail (clamp) is #63-198. This item is no longer made and no factory parts are available.


From the Winter 1999 issue of the Club News:

Q: The upper rear shock mounting comes loose on my 1960 300. I re-tighten but it comes loose after a few hundred miles.

A: A common problem on 1960-1964 uni-body cars. Remove plug in trunk and remove nut. After shock is removed, remove the shaft and install a tight fitting (inside diameter) thick washer over the shaft. Install shaft so the washer is on the underside of the body. Re-install the shaft, tighten nut in trunk, and re-install shock.

Q: My 1961 driver's seat is very "lazy" when pivoting out. Any help?

A: First, check the spring tension. If weak, replace it (hardware store item). Remove seat, clean Nylon rollers and track, lube with lithium grease. If Nylon washer is missing on top of frame for pivot bolt, or worn, replace (also a hardware store item) and lightly lube.

Q: I am getting many different answers as to what lube to use in my 4 speed A833 transmission. What is correct?

A: Chrysler service bulletins designate "automatic transmission fluid". This fluid should be Type F or Type FA. This fluid should also be used on all cast iron 727 and 904 transmissions. Do not use Type A Suffix A, or any Dexron or Mercon.

Q: I have installed heavy-duty turn signal bulbs and now my signals flash very rapidly. What is wrong?

A: You must use a heavy-duty flasher unit to get proper turn signal flashing. Since more current is used to flash heavy-duty bulbs, the flasher has more resistance, hence slower flashing. Heavy-duty flashers are available at all parts stores.

Q: My steering wheel always wants to turn slightly to the right on start up. Why?

A: The control valve on top of the gear box is out of adjustment. Loosen the two bolts and re-adjust without the engine running until you find the correct position, and re-start the car until corrected.

Q: When I put the transmission into gear, there is a "clunk" sound from the rear end. Also a "clunk" going from drive to reverse and vise-versa.

A: That "clunk" is in reference to excessive rear axle clearance. For both standard and sure-grip, axle end play should be .015" to .020" for each axle.

Q: Driving on the road, during down-shifting or up-shifting, it sounds like the transmission is hitting something.

A: It may well be. The transmission insulator (mount) may have separated and allows the transmission to jump up and down on the cross member, and also hit the floor tunnel. A left front engine mount could also cause this if it has failed.

Q: Can a stock tachometer from a 1960 fit into a `63 or `64 300? Or vice versa?

A: Yes, but a 60-61-62 tach must have a 200 volt supply to illuminate the face and needle (a 60-62 power supply is needed). A 63-64 tach can be used in 60-62 cars but needs a hook up for a light bulb to illuminate the face and needle. The cable is the same for all years with a mechanical tach.


Reprinted from the 1999 Club News Volume 26 Number 1

Q: The backup light switches on ’55 and ’56 Powerflite transmissions do fail and replacements are non existent. What to do?

A: Try a Carquest Auto parts store. A SLS28 is a brake light switch that is 99% correct, but the terminals are both male (original are male and female) and the one wire end must be replaced with a female end. Works perfectly.

Q: The starter on my ’60 300F refuses to efficiently start the engine when the motor is warm. It has been rebuilt but still acts the same. Why?

A: When the oil-lite bushing is replaced on the nose of the starter, it should be reamed out by .015” to allow for heat expansion of the shaft, because the starter is in close proximity of the exhaust pipe and cross-over pipe on the ram cars, and a lot of heat is transferred.

Q: When I am stopped at a red light in my 300F with engine idling, smoke rises between the hood and the right fender. The engine is in good condition and runs well. Why does it “smoke?”

A: Non A/C cars had road draft tubes that emit those fumes when stopped. A/C cars have PCV systems that route fumes and smoke to the intake manifold balance tube. Cars that were ordered from California had the PCV system even if not A/C because of clean air act. Remove the balance tube and weld in a 5/16” steel tube, remove road draft tube and replace with a later model cap and valve and length of rubber fuel line hose. Smoke is gone!

Q: I have heard that a “new” 300M for 2001 was shown at a California auto show. Supposedly it was only for the show. Chrysler does not confirm or deny. Any substance to its production?

A: It IS being built. The engine now develops 300 hp, has 18” wheels, larger brakes, real wood interior and other refinements.

Q: I had both front driveshaft “joints” replaced but my car has a vibration at certain speeds. The driveshaft was balanced but I still have the vibration at about 60/65 MPH.

A: First, check engine mounts. If OK, then check trans insulator. Mainly, the trans mount seems to be the culprit. Remove the 2 bolts on either end of the insulator to cross member and slightly jack up the transmission. Check to see that both the top plate and bottom plate are firmly attached to the rubber core. If not, remove the insulator assembly, clean the plate or plates and degrease the rubber portion and remove all grease and rust from the plates. Use a 2 part epoxy and leave pressure on the assembly for at least 24 hours then reinstall. This may correct the vibration. If not, other areas need inspection.

Q: I have been trying to locate 15” wheels for my 300G. Junk yards tell me that Chrysler used 14” wheels in 1961. Did someone put later model wheels on my G?

A: Strange as it may seem, only the 300G in 1961 had 15” wheels. All other 61s had 14”. Wheels from 1962 through 1963 will be 15”. Also 1966 up with disc brakes will be 15”. Later models (’69 up) will have 15”. Centers are slightly different but can be used and must have 6-1/2” wide rims.


Reprinted from the 2000 Club News Volume 26 Number 2

Q: Where can I find a fuel pump rod for my 413 engine. NAPA doesn’t have them.
A: NAPA can no longer supply them. CarQuest has them, #PR1021. Chrysler dealers have them under various numbers: 1737745, 3751613, and P5249569. All for under $10. Length is 3-7/32”.
Q: I need dome light bulbs for my ’55 300. What number are they?
A: #210-6V is what you need. This bulb is also used in the dash. They seem to be difficult to find. If parts stores can’t help, try some farm tractor dealers.
Q: I installed a 2.93/1 differential with Sure-Grip in my 300F to get better fuel mileage and more grip on the road (from non Sure-Grip) and having trouble getting the axle clearance. One axle sticks way out.
A: When changing a non Sure-Grip to Sure-Grip, the right axle is 1/8” shorter than the left because of the different “block” thickness in the Sure-Grip center section that separates the axle ends. Solution – grind 1/8” off end of right axle and follow axle end play procedure in the service manual.
Q: My ’56 power steering pump leaks fluid between the pump and generator. It works fine otherwise. Is there a gasket that can be replaced?
A: It would be a C/R 7480 or National 6835S. Remove the driving lug and drill 2 small holes in the metal portion of the seal – about 1/16”. Get two 1” long metal screws of approx. diameter and size then screw them in about 1/8”. Use pliers or vice grips, pull on the screws to remove the seal. Install new seal with proper size deep socket that contacts metal portion of the seal.
Q: What chassis lube would you recommend for our old cars? Some grease that I buy tends to get “thin” and gets “squished” out of the ball joints.
A: A moly, barium, or lithium based grease works much better than the ordinary type. We prefer the moly because of its “cling” and superior “slip” qualities. Barium type is second, lithium would be third choice above all other lubes. Best anti-friction.
Q: Many years ago I was told to “change the air in my tires”, that is to deflate and reinflate. Never heard of that again. Is this another “grandfather’s axe” story?
A: You know, we have heard this also years ago. The theory behind it was when tires went to tubeless, many gas stations had compressors that were old and had the situation of pumping oil vapor from the crankcase into tube type tires. The rubber tubes would go bad in time due to “oil” in them. When tubeless tires came into use we guess this same idea came into play. “Oil” would eat the inside of the tubeless tires also. Thank goodness for “new” compressors that don’t pump “oil”. Grandfather’s axe? Hmmmmmmm.
Q: My oil gauge (1960) has gone bad and can’t seem to get a good used one. The voltage regulator inside is no good.
A: Try Echlin (NAPA) for a IR4 instrument cluster voltage regulator, or Neihoff AL124A. Use 2 jumper wires and ground base to rear of speed metal housing. Very early ’60 Chryslers used this without the built in regulator. This “fix” can also be used in ‘61s &’62s. Voltage is limited to 7.2 volts to operate other gauges except amp gauge. Echlin IR4 can be used but must be adjusted to 7.2 volts output.

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