A collection
of paint color information
Revised February 27, 2023
Exterior Paint Color
Year Code Name Old Ditzler Number Page # New Ditzler Number
1955 01 Black 9000
25 Tango Red 70525
71899
30 Platinum 8096
8680
1956 01 Raven Black 9000
37 Regimental Red 70643
71568
41 Cloud White 8036 E-66
1957 A Jet Black 9000
F Parade Green (m) 41826 DYE-DDL
2205 w/less poly
N Copper Brown (m) 21018 E-180
P
Gauguin Red 70693 DYE-DDL
70618 little darker
X Cloud White 8036
1958 AAA Raven Black 9000
HHH Aztec Turquoise 42150
R-195
MMM Mesa Tan 21447
2467
OOO Tahitian Coral 70779
60398 too light
PPP Matador Red 70791
71946
XXX Ermine 8131 E-67
1959 AAA Formal Black 9000
KKK Turquoise Grey (m) 42263 E-292
RRR Radiant Red 70791
WWW Cameo Tan (m) 21551 E-185
XXX Ivory White 8131
ZZZ Copper Spice (m) 21550
22240 slightly darker
1960 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Toreador Red (m) 71003 E-399
WW-1 Alaskan White 8218 E-69
R-356
ZZ-1 Terra Cotta (m) 71053 E-400
1961 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Mardi Gras Red 71203 E-403
R-317
RR-1 Cinnamon (m) 71140
A-309 (lacquer)
WW-1 Alaskan White 8218
1962 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
PP-1 Festival Red 71203
WW-1 Oyster White 8293
ZZ-1 Caramel 22095 E-194
1963 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
MM-1 Alabaster 32202 E-248
R-175
NN-1 Madison Grey (m) 32305 E-251
R-176
TT-1 Claret (m) 71348 E-406
R-262
WW-1 Oyster White 8293 E-71
R-73
1964 BB-1 Formal Black 9000
CC-1 Wedgewood 12655 E-120
R-91
DD-1 Nassau Blue (m) 12763 E-123
R-93
EE-1 Monarch Blue (m) 12764 E-124
R-93
FF-1 Pine Mist (m) 43151 E-312
R-199
GG-1 Sequoia Green (m) 43149 E-312
R-199
KK-1 Silver Turquoise (m) 12648 E-120
R-91
LL-1 Royal Turquoise (m) 12765 E-124
R-93
MM-1 Madison Grey 32305
OO-1 Rosewood (m) 50635 E-366
R-238
RR-1 Royal Ruby (m) 50638 E-366
R-239
TT-1 Roman Red 71393 E-412
R-262
UU-1 Embassy Gold 22311
WW-1 Persian White 8358 E-72
R-73
XX-1 Dune Beige 22293 E-198
R-141
YY-1 Sable Tan (m) 22317 E-198
R-141
22-1 Silver Mist (m) 32398 E-254
R-176
1965 AA-1 Regal Gold (m) 22461 E-202
R-144
BB-1 Formal Black 9000/9300
CC-1 Ice Blue 12894 E-129
R-96
DD-1* Nassau Blue 12763
EE-1 Navy Blue (m) 12896 E-129
R-96
FF-1 Mist Blue (m) 12895 E-129
R-96
GG-1 Sequoia Green 43149
KK-1* Peacock Turquoise 12897
LL-1 Royal Turquoise 12765
MM-1* Granite Gray 32401
NN-1 Silver Mist 32398
RR-1 Sierra Sand 22441
SS-1 French Ivory 81413 E-440
R-284
TT-1 Spanish Red (m) 71476 E-407
R-263
VV-1 Cordovan (m) 50673 E-367
R-239
WW-1 Persian White 8362 E-72
R-73
XX-1 Sand Dune Beige 22440 E-202
R-143
YY-1 Sable Tan (m) 22317 E-198
R-141
YY-1 Sable Tan ** (m) 22643 E-207
R-146
ZZ-1 Frost Turquoise (m) 12898 E-129
R-96
22-1 Sage Green (m) 43287 E-316
R-201
33-1 Pink Silver (m) 22444 E-202
R-143
44-1* Moss Gold 22443
55-1 Black Plum 50672
66-1 Mauve 50671
77-1 Patrician Gold 22442
88-1 Daffodil Yellow (1) 81515 E-444
R-285
Year 1955 Silver 1956 Silver 1957 Silver 1958 Silver 1959 Black 1960 Black 1961 Black 1962 Turquoise Green 1963 Turquoise Green 1964 Turquoise Green 1965 Turquoise Green
Suggestions
from members collected over the years.
1960 era
instrument and speedometer needles, Testor Model Master Flourescent
Red #FS28915.
http://www.testors.com/products/136210
1960 air
cleaner gold may use Plastikote Gold (452). It probably will need clear coat to hold up in the engine compartment environment.
http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-14805-plastikote-metallic-paint-12-oz-can-gold-452.aspx
Some members have also recommended Dupli-Color DE1604 Universal Gold
Engine Paint for the air cleaners. Try also the VHT high temperature universal gold engine enamel SP132.
See also http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/1acleaner/01.html for a color comparison on H air cleaners.
Long ram paint: Cummins engine Apex red #3163075.
From Herb Rogers:
Your Chrysler dealer has original factory colors. Golden Lion Gold
P4529149 Mopar Performance paint. Be sure to use a red primer .
From Gil Gunningham regarding the 300F wheel cover:
Someone asked about the best match for the red orange color used for the hubcaps on a 300G.
For the 57 era dash knobs, consider Duplicolor Metalcast Yellow Anodized #M2282.
Rich Barber writes:
Ray Melton writes:
However, since the color matching was a multi-step trial-and-error process
(add a little green and silver here, take out some red there, add more
black, etc.) there was not an easy way for the painter to replicate the
color for future applications, either by myself or someone else. So, I took
the finished pieces to my local paint specialty shop and had them analyze
the color using a special hand-held electronic color matching device. In
less than five minutes, they were able to come up with the formula for
tinting, and I thought I would share that with other interested members.
The starting point for the color base coat was one pint DuPont Chromabase
clear. I don't know what all the numbers and letters mean, but your own
paint specialty person will! Also note that a urethane-compatible primer
must be applied before the color coat.
259663 K CC: M CHROMABASE BC Alt: (EUR)
The top coat was DuPont Chromabase clear, with ~50% flattening agent to
yield a satin gloss level. Not being an automotive painter myself, I was
shocked at the price for this base coat/clear coat paint: the base coat
alone was $112 for one pint, plus a few bucks more for the activator! On
the other hand, the guy who painted my parts mixed up only 8 ounces of color
base coat, and there was still some left over after applying two coats of
color, so that would be only ~$56.00 for a half-pint of the color coat. I
didn't ask about the cost for the clear top coat, but it will be
considerably less. I had the parts stripped and bead-blasted by another
place ($55.00 - and careful NOT to strip the inner surfaces of the oval air
cleaner end pieces to preserve for subsequent color-matching!) before taking
them to the automotive body/paint shop -- the final charge for priming,
sanding and painting the two air cleaner housings and both valve covers was
$280.00.
Note: I've had no need to try out this formula myself, since my parts are
already painted, but if you decide to go with the formula above, you might
want to do a bit of custom color-matching yourself: do a test shot on a few
square inches of a smooth metal surface (tin can lid?) and see how you like
it, then add/subtract tint components to fine-tune to your personal
preference.
Hope this helps some of you out there, so you won't have to go through the
somewhat tedious trial-and-error approach that I did.
A couple of years ago when I had my air cleaners and covers painted, advice
from some club members was to use Mercedes Benz Byzantine Gold colour from
the 1970's. I'm surprised no one has mentioned this in this (and other)
threads.
Did that and they look terrific. My car isn't going in a museum so close is
good enough for me. It isn't a bright gold - which is good. Here is a link
to an advertised car that is pretty much how it turned out.
This may suit others who just want to tell their painter a known colour.
Might be even able to get it in a rattle can.
Hello 300 Fans: Would one of the members please let me know the paint code for passenger side of the dash board (beige) for a 300B. Sincere Thanks Ross
Hi Ross: The color that I use is stock no. 9886 BASF/ limco acrilic enamel. It is called camel beige, it fits a 79 -86 Chevy pick up. Color code 64 / wa8057 . I leave the red oxide out and put in 25 more units in one pint of paint. This color matches Gary's vinyl very well. Bob Hayen
Click here for a reprint of Gil Cunningham's article on K interior colors
Click here for a reprint of Gil Cunningham's article on L interior colors
From the 1976 Club News Vol III Number III, Gil Cunningham wrote:
INTERIOR
PAINT COLORS – DITZLER NUMBERS – C300 thru 300J
Mike Laiserin wrote this in response to a question on Hurst paint and it is a good review of paint in general: Although there are several different "gold" colors for Caddy (both '69 & '70), the color code I believe you're after is PPG #2184. It's referenced as Sauterne. No "mist" or "gold" in the name. It's currently available from PPG in their "Shopline" series. Having said that here are some thoughts: I've found that modern formulas used to mix older colors are "close" at best. The modern toners / pigments used to paints are not the same as those used when the colors were formulated. Also, it's not just paint brand itself. When I did my 300K in Silver Torquoise I had an original aged, but untouched paint sample under the K medallion on the quarter panel. It polished clean. I mixed the color in PPG, BASF Diamont, and Glasurit and Dupont. Not only did not of those match the good sample on the car, they didn't even match each other. They were all close, but different. I chose the one I liked best. When painting my brother's '71 Chrysler I did the same thing.. multiple brands for the burnished red metallic produced different colors and ALL of them way too brown. None of them matched each other and none of them matched our sample and/our memories and old photos of when the car was new. We chose a 2012 Jaguar color and it was perfect. The metallic was very fine and there was no pearl look in the color. By that I mean the color didn't change or "pop" in the sunlight. Yes we looked at newer Chrysler colors but they all had larger metallic and all "popped" in the sunlight...a dead giveaway it would not be an original color. Also, paint companies have a camera they use to scan the color for a formula... yes and no. The camera only references the closest color stored in the computer, not the formula to mix the paint you're trying to match. What it comes down to is the modern paint formulas are at best a close attempt to match originals. I believe you'd be better suited pulling the deck of chips (NOT a color book) and fanning them out to match what you either have as a sample or choose the one that's close. Look at the color chip "head on" and then look at it from a 45 degree angle to see if the "sidecast" is acceptable. Some colors look good straight on then completely change when looking at an angle. Try to avoid a color that has that "flop" to it. I don't recommend letting your painter tint the paint (change the formula) to try to achieve the desired color. By the time you need something repaired or touched up he'll likely be long gone and then good luck trying to redo the one-off mix. Stick with a color code you're happy with. Another thing to remember is that for any given color code on a vehicle (even new cars) there are often alternates. Meaning we sometimes have 3 or 4 formulas to choose from for the same color code. Hope I didn't muddy the waters, or colors, so to speak Mike Laiserin
Someone was asking about the colors for the K.
For those of you who might want to touch up the tan interior paint for 300D/300C/300F/ 300G, the color is "Arizona Beige" DuPont paint code 45195-D. I used on my 300D and I couldn't tell where the new paint started and the original paint ended.
I had a local body supply store make me a quart of Chrysler green engine paint from the last of my Duplicolor 210. It came out perfect and cost $38.00. The place is MacDonald Auto, 1397 E. Main St., Torrington CT. 06790 in case any club members need this paint. Ask for John Leonard. 860-489-1410. He has the recipe.
On the electroluminescent Astradomes,
I recently did a lot of experimenting with different paints for gage needles. I found that Plasti-kote High visibility fluorescent works best, and the needles still light up nice. The part number is FL-9 in an 11 once spray can.
That can is more than you will ever need.
A few years ago I visited the local Finishmaster shop in my hometown hoping for assistance in getting an accurate match for the original Platinum white paint for my '55. After searching through quite a bit of literature in the local store the manager submitted information to the manufacturer for additional assistance. On the following day I received a phone call from the store manager and she indicated that a response had been received and the results were that a single stage urethane paint formula used by Isuzu is a "close match". I took a chance with that and I'm very pleased. I've had numerous comments regarding the color as a great reproduction of the original. My personal opinion is that it likely falls within the original batch variations of color as applied at the factory.
Ron Kurtz writes:
Jeff Miklas writes:
More Tint Information
Dave Schwandt sends this PDF for the Aztec Turquoise paint code.
Noel Hastalis investigates the black paint behind the grilles on F, G, H. Click here.
Carl Bilter writes:
Michael Van der veen writes: Here is a page from the 1964 Chrysler book on pin stripe colors for the 300K.
Bill Elder writes:
Carl Bilter writes:
Don Drakulich writes:
Rob Bohuslav writes:
Tim Tomlinson writes:
Kurt Brueske writes:
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