Jamie Hyde writes:
I read that Mancini Racing has new vacuum advances for our cars distributors. See http://www.manciniracing.com/vaadme.html. They have big block and small block cans as well as cans for dual point distributors.

Keith Boonstra writes:
On August 4th I was pleased to host the second "Burgers with Burt." Burt did a fine job discussing his days with Chrysler and seemed very pleased to be invited to do this with us. He said he'd come back next year again if he can.
We will have 4 videos of this "Burgers with Burt" in future editions of the ENews.

Josh Ackerman writes;
It has been over 3 years since I bought '55 Chrysler #1001 from Steve McCloud's family. I've done a ton of leg work. I've been shocked by how helpful everyone has been. My biggest surprise has come from the Brody family in Norco. About a month ago I met Ken and Brad Brody. What great guys. Talk about a dedicated Chrysler 300 family. Click here to read the full story.

Mark Love writes;
Ken Brody didn’t know me from Adam when I called up on referral from Don Reitz. I was running out of time to get to Sonoma this spring. I just couldn’t make it on the original generator for my 300 F. Ken called me to say he had one (of five or more) in the shop that would work. I drove an hour to his shop and, giving him my original, he loaned me one after he spent the time to ready and test it. He then offered to walk mine over to his electrical shop and have it rebuilt. Just like that I headed back home and we were on the road to Rohnert Park the next morning. The best illustration of Club fraternity and trust. Ken just plain knows.
I’m going to look for something to fix on the F and give him a call just to watch him work. Thanks Ken and to the other club members I meet every week on line or in person.

Carl Bilter writes;
Work in the J continues. Today we are taking a look at the alternator, see pictures. It is not original to the car but I was pleased to find it had the "Forward Look" emblem. Like many rebuilt pieces, the front half doesn't match the rear -- this one has a 1974 front with a late 1961 back.
The date code is very worn but as best I can tell is the 46th week of 1961, so 1962 model year. This alternator probably is desirable for fellas with an H although it also might be possible that it could have been leftover stock for 1963. The Forward Look symbol phase out began in Jan. 1963 when the Pentastar was introduced. Notice the “HA” which I presume means “high amperage,” for an A/C car.
You can find more information on alternators here.

Run Kurtz writes;
The restoration of E #292 continues on the steering linkage. I removed the entire linkage from the car intact and marked each tie rod end according to its position in the assembly; DSI (driver side inside), DSO, PSI (passenger side inside) and PSO. I learned that a car has two right sides and two left sides, depending whether you are looking at the car from the front or rear. This is a sure way to get it correct.
I matched the new ends with the old ones, counted the exposed threads on old and marked the new ones accordingly so the new assembly will be the same as the old. All parts are new expect for the center link, gear arm and knuckle arms.

Jeff Miklas writes;
I've attached a few pics of a wheel from my Disc Brake equipped '66 300. Click here. Maybe you can add them to your "wheel" page. The wheel is a dead ringer for my 300H wheels and no doubt same as 300G. It even has the "clips". I've seen other Disc Brake 66 300's and they all have the same wheel. Possibly, even the 67 and 68 disc brake C-bodies would all have the same wheel. That would make finding replacement wheels a little easier.

John Kuegel writes;
I recently installed a HiTorque brand gear - reduction starter in my '60 300F. It should be the same for 300G. It is part number IMI-126-001 and has the correct bolt pattern, depth and number of teeth on the drive. It was $225.00 plus about $13.00 shipping. I got mine directly from the maker: IMI Performance Products in Whittier, Ca. It is best to do that, so you get the correct one. Don't bother trying to save the $10 by buying from resellers ... all the resellers seem to sell only the 126-002, which is the wrong one. The only thing I needed to do, and they advised me of this, was to grind a little bit off of the flange in one small place to fit in the bell housing ... no biggie. Yes, it sounds different cranking, but it takes the big current draw off the battery and takes the big stress off of me when she has been sitting for a spell and there is no gas up in the carbs...or when the engine is hot and the (old) starter refuses to turn. Get one of these starters and you will be happy.

Mick Maxwell (Australia) writes;
G’ Day Everyone.
I hope you all have a great time at Newport, Rhode Island. I wish I was there, but I have to get this car of mine finished.

John Holst writes;
This has been an interesting week. For several years the brakes were very tight on my K coupe. I rebuilt the booster with a used unit and still had a scary tight brake response at slow speeds. It required a careful touch when stopping and I had to put the transmission in neutral to avoid locking up the rears at slow in-town speeds. Finally I took the car down to a real good old time mechanic and found that both front rubber lines were collapsed and the star nut adjusters were too tight. The result was that all the pressure was going to the rears and none to the front drums. It was an interesting effect when stopping at slow speeds -- it felt like you would be thrown through the windshield. We pulled all 4 drums and discovered that once they had been replaced with new glued pads and were in "very" good shape. New lines and adjustment was the trick and now they work like new. Also pulled a couple of plugs and found them in really good shape so the choke pull off replacement was the answer to the rich running problem a couple of years ago.
I also had rubbings on all 4 corners from the dust cover that looked like it had worn the paint off the fenders. I assumed that they would have to be painted and that idea was scary. I stopped at a really good body shop and the owner looked at the marks and when he heard what had happened he had an inspiration. He went into the shop and used a rag with some solvent on the rag and lightly scrubbed the corners and the marks disappeared. The black marks were from the cover and not damage to the paint. Instant cure. He suggested that we could also touch up a couple of small rock chip marks. He went to his paint source parts store and using the color code found on the 1964 Ditzler code sheet and mixed up a small bottle of paint. At face value it looked a little dark, but when dabbed on with the small brush it was invisible. Both projects had been hold while I recovered from the Cancer and Hip surgeries for over three years.
It was a great day! Woo Hoo...