Bill Elder writes:
This concerns the copper pipes that were used on some Gs for the heater. The driver’s side pipe and the orientation of that pipe at the rear of the engine has two different configurations. George Hiller and I have pipes, where the segment of the pipe that connects to the heater box is straight up and down, 12 o-clock. Jean-Yves’ engine and Bob Merritt’s engine have pipes where the rear segment of the pipe points towards the brake booster, say the two o-clock position. The straight up and down position creates a problem. The heater hose must immediately bend 90 degrees then do a loop up to the heater box. This results in restricted coolant flow, because the hose can’t achieve these bends without being pinched off.
So who can say why there are two versions, was there an engineering change, was there a vendor change? It’s obvious that the pipes that point towards the brake booster are the better version. Here is my solution to the problem. I purchased a hose with a preformed 90 degree bend and a brass connector and used these pieces to connect to a piece of 5/8 power steering return line. Even with the brass connector heading close to the correct direction, I found that the regular heater hose wanted to flatten out, while bending up to the heater box. The power steering return hose has a more robust side wall and resists flattening out and pinching off. If you are interested in this subject, could you please look at the orientation of the driver’s side pipe on your car, let me know if it is 12 or 2 and your engine build date. Mine is March 22.

Jeff Miklas writes:
I saw the picture of the manual transmission 1963 300 Sport in the E-News 66. Here are pictures of the shifter "doghouse" from a 300L 4speed. Chrysler sure improved the piece from 1963.

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Jon Sager writes:
There is a lot of opinions if that spring in the lower radiator hose is needed or not. I've even read that it was only in there to make filling on the assembly line possible using some sort of vacuum system. I use them as I've seen lower hoses collapse during overheating and I don't buy into the new hoses being built that much better.
The Mustang guys have been reproducing them for a number of years. Stainless steel wire and I think the diameter will work. The other option is buying some SS wire and winding it around something a bit smaller in diameter than the ID of the hose. Lower Radiator Hose Spring, big block 8" long x 1.625" O.D. x .062 T302SS wire